Eroica 2008 riesling

Another WAwineman classic, 1st posted on April 16, 2010:

Was that you, Mr. Z? Wednesday night, “a 21 year-old” man was charged with assault at a Phillies game for…ugh, intentionally vomiting on an off-duty officer and his 11 year-old daughter. Well, I guess I won’t be taking my Turning Leaf merlot to the next Mariners homestand. Not to be outdone, a 19 year-old Michigan State Univ. man was arrested for pilfering 79 pairs of underwear from a campus dormitory’s laundry room. All 79 pairs were butt floss…oops, I meant thongs. Give the guy a break. He was just looking for an added sniff from cleaning his teeth. Oh…that was wrong. Is it any surprise that the former mayor of Granite Falls out in Hicksville, WA was arrested for dealing marijuana out of his home? What’s really odd is that the local police department spent 10% of its budget trying to bust this mutthead. That’s similar to the amount of teeth left in the villagers there. And, sadly, Whatcom County has become the new Enumclaw as cops busted a felon for running a…a…uh, I just don’t understand this, a farm that catered to bestiality. The dude’s a British national so I can only think this is what happens when one drinks too much Claret. Surprised he didn’t try that stunt in the HORSE Heaven Hills. Just sayin’.

Call it a paradigm shift…or I just got grokked. Washington State is known to the rest of the world for its rieslings. Say what you want about all the yummy juice we imbibe on locally…the rest of the nation thinks you are speaking a foreign language when you mention: Barnard Griffin, Alexandria Nicole Cellars, phreak…even Pine & Post. But talk about riesling and Washington instantly becomes the topic. We can thank Chateau Ste. Michelle for the many decades they supported this fine white grape.

Ten years ago, CSM embarked on a partnership with Dr. Ernst Loosen (loh-zen) of Germany, and no, that’s not the old garden store (Ernst) I’m talking ‘bout. Dr. Loosen makes classic Old-World Mosel rieslings, while the Chateau produces reference-standard New-World rieslings. The two powerhouses partnered to create a new style of riesling and chose to name it “Eroica”, or Italian for heroic (not erotica), which is the name of Beethoven’s Third Symphony. Stepping back, the original name for that Symphony was “Bonaparte” but Beethoven was so disgusted when Nappy named himself Emperor of the French, that the name was rather violently changed, as Beethoven used a knife to scratch a hole through the paper he wrote the Symphony on. I think, more importantly, the Symphony is often considered as the musical start of the Romantic period.

What remains to be revealed is the connection to the second movement, which is played during a funeral march. It was performed at the memorial of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt (April 12, 1945), who will be remembered more for signing Executive Order 9066 which resulted in the involuntary incarceration of US citizens of Japanese heritage on the West Coast, the only time in US history that the government rounded up a sector of its own citizens solely out of fear. President Jimmy Carter created a Commission in 1980 that later concluded the confinement of Japanese-Americans was a “failure of political leadership.”

The partnership has also yielded other bottlings of: Saint M riesling (a Pfalz-style riesling), an ice wine, and a single-berry select which is Washington State’s most expensive wine at $200 per split (375mL).

This is the 10th anniversary vintage of Eroica and some say, it’s best yet. As riesling is considered the most age-able of wines, this is the one white wine that should be set aside in the cellar next to your Leonettis, Quilceda Creeks, Betz Family Winery, and DeLille Cellars reds. This wine is front-loaded with acid and shows a slight effervescence in the glass. Compared side-by-side with my final pour from Januik’s Bacchus Vineyard, Eroica’s color is deeper gold, but Eroica’s acid is just overpowering at this point.

Food pairing was leftover Thai food from Talay Thai. No magic but still a decent pairing.

Color: crisp straw. Nose: strong honeysuckle, drippy buttery nectarine, peach, white flowers. Mouthfeel: dense. Tail trail: 5 seconds. Flavors: mandarin orange, squeeze of lime, acid bite, peach, kiwi. Balance: crustacean wine…too acid. Power: strong upfront but little evolution. Depth: hard to get past the mandarin and acid. Finesse: needs a lot of time to settle down, but should be a great wine in 2018.

Columbia Valley AVA. Still only $17.21 at Costco Aurora Village. “Perfect” ripening season. Yakima Valley vineyards provided the crisp acidity and minerality. Evergreen Vineyard for lime and peach. Viewcrest Vineyard for everything else. Horse Heaven Vineyard also included. TA 0.82%. pH 3.03. Alcohol: 11.5%. RS 1.77%. 100% riesling. Rated: 90. Value: $19. Paid: $17. Music pairing: “Der Kommissar” by Falco. This is WAwineman…uncorked, uneducated but not uncouth.

Btw, what’s up with Barrage Cellars, Des Voigne Cellars and Cuillin Hills Winery all moving to Ballard? Ask them.

24hrs post: acid-bite has muted. Flavors have integrated seamlessly. Stone-sweet flavors moved to the fore. Would rate this up a point, as predicted.

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